As winter rapidly closes its icy grip around my undefended neck, I look back fondly at the days when I could lounge about under a warm sun, dismissing servant girls and their overabundant grapes.
Actually those days were last week, if a bit exaggerated. Winter has indeed descended upon me, but let us not concern us with such disgusting matters. Today I would like to describe that most enchanting of countries, producer of Alexander and Zorba, great statues and bad accents, that cradle of civilization, Greece.
Jana and I decamped to Rhodes for a week of decompression and amnesia, as we tried to forget that we were gainfully employed middle-class wage-slaves. We took a package deal with a large number of middle-aged czechs, who spent the week lounging by the pool and eating free food from the cafeteria. Jana and I attempted to relax by the pool one day. We quit after an hour to go explore the historical city of Rhodes.
Rhodes has beaches and clubs and other crap people like, but it also once had crazy knight-monks who harassed the turks with a mix of piracy and religious fervor. I’m talking about the Knights of Malta, the Knights Hospitaller, and the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and the Knights of Walt Disney. I made that last one up, but these guys were seriously cool for two reasons: 1) they were hospital workers who eventually evolved into one of the most potent military forces in the mediterranean, and 2) they built big, massive walls.
I can’t expain my fascination with old, big walls, but it must have something to do with sexual frustration. Of course, according to Freudian psychology everything had to do with sexual frustration, which negates the whole idea. Anyway I like taking pictures of old, big walls. Like, for example, Dubrovnik. Or Windsor. Or like a million places in Bohemia. Technically you could say all I’ve done over the past three years is drink beer and take pictures of old crap, and you would be right. But I digress.
Here’s an example of one of their big, massive walls. Cool. After they got kicked of of Rhodes they went to Malta, where they turned the whole island into one big stone fortress, eventually helping to defeat the Ottomans at Lepanto and forever break the power of the Turkish military in the Med. Then the Knights got kicked out of Malta by Napoleon and eventually replaced by the British, whose pasty skin and bad cooking somehow propelled them into great-empire status.
Rhodes was never occupied by the british empire, but today it is happily ensconsed as a sex-party fuelled destination for dim, drunk english youngsters. Their home base is Faliraki, perhaps one of the foulest destinations I’ve ever visited. It is the epitome of every dingy seaside village, hyped up on the steroids of modern tourism and mixed with a bit of nostalgia for Irish beer. It’s so bad that typing this paragraph has made me ill. Let’s move on.
Jana and I spent most of the week exploring various island destinations during the day, and visiting Rhodes town in the evening for some greek food and beer. And I mixed in a bit of photography as well, check out my flickr set here. I would definitely like to visit greece again, but without the whole package-deal thing, that was boring. Perhaps an island-hopping trip is in order for next year, when Jana and I should have enough money to retire and do what we always preferred to do.
Which is, of course, take a plane to some weird plance, look at some old town, and find out who built this giant wall, and why.
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